A first spoonful of broth in a small ramen shop can be a good way into Japanese cooking. Look beyond the bowl and there is plenty to notice: the season's ingredients, the balance of textures, the care in a simple dish. Food tells you something about a place, and taking your time over it is part of the pleasure.
Tokyo, one stop at a time
Tokyo gives you plenty to follow. Yakitori skewers on the grill, small sushi counters, a knife moving carefully through fish. Then there are konbini, the convenience shops open around the clock, where an onigiri makes a quick meal worth paying attention to. A busy city, with room for very particular kinds of care.
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Kyoto offers a change of pace. Kaiseki, a traditional meal served in a series of courses, brings seasonal ingredients together through colour, temperature and texture. Each dish is considered on its own and as part of the meal. It is an invitation to notice what is on the plate, and to take your time with it.
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Leave room for a surprise
Some discoveries happen in small, family-run restaurants, where the meal is less about choosing from a familiar menu and more about seeing what the cook has in mind. Leave a little room for surprise. You do not need to know every dish in advance to enjoy the welcome, or the food.
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Start with the ingredients
The ingredients are a good place to finish. Fish, vegetables and rice each call for a different kind of attention. Rather than adding more, the cooking can focus on bringing out what is already there. A few well-judged choices leave room for the ingredients to taste of themselves.



